10/26/2022
Entertaining? Wine and a charcuterie board maybe just what you need.
Welcome The Vine. Enjoy thank you John.
Shortly after walking through the door at The Vine you're likely to meet Randy, the proprietor, sommelier, decorator, handyman, and raconteur of the establishment. Many restaurateurs are investors who know the cost of everything in the building. Randy knows the value of everything in the building. He speaks effortlessly on subjects as varied as manufacturing and dry gewurztraminer. His love of the establishment is palpable.
Normally I wouldn't love sitting at the table nearest the front door, but in this case I have to recommend it. An arched ceiling and burgundy walls evoke the feeling of a wine barrel and it more than makes up for any foot traffic. Food somehow tastes better under an arched ceiling and with flickering lights designed to illuminate like candles.
The Vine has a menu that is somehow all over the map while simultaneously making total sense. You want a quick nosh before heading to Thalian Hall? No problem, have one of The Vine's generous cheese plates. Looking for heartier fare? There's steak. Dessert and a glass of wine? They got you covered. Not sure what you want? More on that later.
I made my first venture to The Vine on a Friday evening and settled in quickly with a dry rose and a couple of appetizers. I forced myself to decide quickly on the bacon pops and the tuna poke tostada (lest I starve while spending all night agonizing over the menu). The bacon pops blend a multitude of flavors seamlessly, with a sugar and balsamic vinegar in perfect harmony and the slight char finishing the whole thing off with a beautiful smokiness. The tuna, rich and fatty, swims in ginger and soy for a rich and tart experience. Leaving some of it on the table to save room for more dishes to sample is one of the greatest acts of willpower I've exerted in recent memory.
As I was flying solo that evening I was forced to settle for an a la carte cheese plate. The on menu versions are too generous for even a gluttonous epicure such as myself. Served on a large slab of black slate, the charcuterie plate features nothing but winners. First among equals is a gorgeous double cream brie which offsets the prosciutto beautifully. I'll be finding some friends to sample a larger version soon.
I told you that Randy knows the value of everything and chief among his assets is Chris Williamson, whose joy at describing the offerings of his kitchen can't be contained behind his expansive grin. So many chefs are great in their kitchens but the rare skill in that profession is talent in the dining room. Chris enhances the flavor of each dish more than salt or pepper ever could just by describing it.
And I couldn't be more grateful to him. Without his input I would never have known about an off menu mussel dish in gochujang and tomato. It's sweet at first bite with an elegant spicy finish playing off the brine of the mussels. The sliced bread let me greedily attack what was left of the sauce and I would have gladly gone through a loaf to finish the rest. The dry riesling Randy placed beside it multiplied the experience.
I had already planned on sampling the au poivre and Chris insisting I do so sealed the deal. He makes the peppercorn sauce with white wine which makes it somewhat more delicate without sacrificing any of the flavor. Knives are superfluous with the fork tender filet mignon and frankly one would only slow you down. Don't miss the peppery crust on this one. It's balanced exquisitely with mashed potatoes, brussels sprouts, and butternut squash which combine to add sweetness, bitterness, and heft to the dish. I settled for the smaller version but would have eaten a plate the length of the bar if given the opportunity.
I was fortunate to arrive on a night when an experimental dessert was available. An espresso creme brulee would make me leery if The Vine hadn't already built up the kind of credibility it had over the previous hour. Too often coffee is overpowering in desserts but in this case it blended with the vanilla flavors in the custard to give a rich, sugary coffee experience in a bowl. By that point in the evening I expected nothing less.
The Vine is a must visit for foodies. And, if heading downtown isn't in the cards for you tonight, Cape Fear Delivery will bring the wine bar experience to you. Check out their Tuesday tastings and consider them for your next great meal. order here https://bit.ly/3Ncdp57
