08/28/2026
Some food is so good, the memory never leaves. Edna Ray was a local Los Gatos restaurant from the 1980’s that still occupies a place in my heart, head and stomach with their Special Beef. Chef Shawn went OTT on this one, helping me figure out how what and why dish was such a lingering pleasure. It’s a long story that leads back to Johnny Kan, legendary SF restaurateur and author of 8 Immortal Flavors from 1963. So much to say and such little space to share, but here’s our recreation: local Bluefin Belly instead of beef, dripping in a savory magic that only 5000 years of Chinese cooking, British influence on Hong Kong, immigration to the US and a melting pot could create. Served in a swanky ToGo container and over crispy maifun noodles, it is outrageously good.
