07/31/2026
BLACK COD | mussel | fennel
Thoughts from Dave Beran:
“When I first started working at Alinea Restaurant the food didn’t make a lot of sense to me. I loved the aesthetic, the thought process, but the ingredients and flavor profiles felt foreign. Ingredients like sorrel, nasturtium, fennel pollen- not uncommon by any means, but for a 24yr old cook in 2006 it was a huge stretch from my time at Tru and MK.
In 2007 I had just become sous chef, in the same meeting Grant Achatz also informed the staff he had cancer. Over the next couple months, as treatment was approaching, he had encouraged all of the managers to take a week vacation knowing the weight of responsibility that was about to fall on us in the coming months.
Not having anywhere to go, he sent me out to The French Laundry where Corey Lee cooked one of the best meals I’ve had to date. I wandered Golden Gate Park, I walked all through Yountville and the TFL garden, explored Napa and finally began to understand the flavor profiles at Alinea.
As I develop my culinary fingerprint I think back a lot to my early days at Alinea, and that trip. I think back to seeing all of the wild fennel along the side of the road on the drive north and how that shaped a young Achatz palate, and what it must have been like to bring that with him to Chicago.
My palate and flavor profiles are a collection of my experiences- from kitchens I’ve worked in to time spent in my grandfathers gardens. Fennel has become a staple in my cuisine- not because I love anisette flavors, but because I understood it at a moment in my life where I was really looking for something to understand.
For me- fennel is the bridge between where I came from, and where I am now.”
Photo: Wonho Frank Lee