08/18/2026
How to do a solid paver base for a packaged shed.
Note: If you don't mind it being raised a bit, a wood framed base would be quicker, less expensive and easier for most DIYers.
1. Select your site considering how you will mow around- too close to a fence can be a problem. Check local code, depending on where you live, there may be restrictions to set backs from your home or property lines and you also may be required to get a permit.
2. Square the area you need for the base, I use rebar stakes and string, measure each side and make sure your corner to corner diagonal measurements are the same. In this case, I used 2x4's to frame the area to conserve materials needed. Doing so allows you to build the exact size of the shed. If you aren't going to frame a form you need to dig out about 12" more in every direction around it to insure the base is solid.
3. Dig down to solid ground removing all top soil. I remove the grass by cutting sod squares about 12"x12" first so that I can reuse them around the shed when completed. Store your remaining top soil on cardboard or plastic to reuse as backfill and keep the surrounding yard clean. In this case, I removed 5 to 6 inches total and knew I was on solid ground when it was solid clay.
4. Install your 2x4 form, if using one, make it level all the way around at the thickness of your pavers lower than your finished height of the completed base. You can insure it's square by following your string between the rebar stakes and by measuring each side and the corner diagonals. Insure it's level using a level.
5. Fill, level, and compact enough drainage gravel to leave a couple of inches to the top of your form. I use a level to screed it, a straight 2x4 is fine too. It's a good idea to saturate it with water and use a tamper to make sure it is settled as good as possible- it doesn't have to be perfectly level because you have more layers to add.
6. Add about an inch of paver base, level and compact. Again spray it down and use a tamper to level. Again this layer doesn't have to be perfectly level so don't waste too much time trying, just get it close.
7. Add about an inch of leveling sand, if using a form it should be equal with the top of the form when leveled and compacted using water to saturate and a tamper. This layer is where you want to spend your time getting it as level as possible.
8. Use your rebar stakes with string to install the pavers square. Use a rubber mallet to tap them down to level or add leveling sand to raise them to level depending on what you need.
9. If your shed comes with a rubber or plastic base, sit it on the completed pavers, before filling the joints, and make any necessary adjustments to make sure it sits square and level on your pad.
10. Remove the base and fill the joints. Since a shed will be sitting on the pavers and they won't be exposed you can use your leveling sand to fill the joints instead of the more expensive polymeric sand. Sweep the sand in with a broom filling the joints completely. Saturate with water to compact and repeat brooming sand in to fill any areas that need more fill.
11. Build the shed following all directions closely, step by step. All of these packaged sheds are engineered to be constructed in a particular order. Usually having two people is necessary. If you are a very experienced builder, one person can do it like I did. But certain steps are easier with 2 people even for someone with my experience. Also, some of these types of sheds are more compatible than others for a DIY project. Read the instructions carefully before trying to assemble yourself and if you find it too complicated for you, ask questions to understand how to assemble or hire someone like me to assemble for you. Most of these types of sheds have online directions available so you can often review the assembly instructions before purchasing the particular shed you want. This particular shed is Lifetime brand and would be difficult for an inexperienced DIYer to do but not impossible.
