01/08/2026
雲南是「野生菌王國」，那裡地理環境特別, 高海拔的原始森林，充沛雨季，讓那片土地長出世界其他地方找不到的野生菌。
為了找尋最頂級的食材，我們團隊直接飛了一趟雲南，去了全亞洲最大的野生菌市場——昆明木水花野生菌交易中心。
那天清晨 6 點到達，一進去, 即被眼前畫面所震撼！野菌攤位望不到盡頭，堆得像小山，全都是剛從森林裡採下來的寶物。當地人教我們怎麼看菌蓋的緊實度，摸菌柄的硬度，聞那種帶著泥土和森林的香氣，學習如何在這麼多菌子裡挑出「萬中選一」的頂級貨。
以下8 款經典雲南野菌，每一種味道及口感都各有千秋：
1. 松茸： 有高雅的香氣，聞起來是淡淡雪松和乾淨泥土的味道。
2. 牛肝菌： 肉質很厚實，肥美多汁，有濃郁的奶油鮮味。
3. 雞縱菌： 脆口，清甜，撕開來的肉質特別像嫩嫩的雞肉。
4. 青頭菌： 飽滿多汁，有一點青草淡雅
5. 羊肚菌： 大家熟悉，也不用介紹
6. 雞油菌： 漂亮的鮮黃色，帶一點點像杏桃的果香和微弱的白胡椒味。
7. 紅乳牛肝菌： 口感非常絲滑，有一種很深沉、濃郁的森林木質香氣。
8. 見手青： 這是當地的傳奇菌子，用手一碰，菌肉就會立刻變成深藍色。不過這款菌子生吃是有微毒，必須要用高溫煮熟，才能把那種鮮美和滑嫩口感激發出來。
不過，我們心目中的超級主角絕對是乾巴菌。它是雲南最珍貴、也最難搞的菌子。因為它生長在松針和泥土堆裡，採下來之後須人手逐片把裡面的雜質清理乾淨。這份等待是完全值得的——它的香氣有層次了，聞起來就像風乾臘牛肉、濃縮松脂的結合，一吃難忘。
這批精心清理的乾巴菌，已經加入到我們的招牌煲仔飯裡。當飯粒在砂鍋內烤出金黃焦香的鍋巴，雲南森林的原始香氣就會在大家面前爆發出來。
Yunnan Province is an ecological anomaly. Blessed with dramatic altitude shifts, virgin forests, and abundant monsoons, its unique terroir yields an astonishing array of wild mushrooms found nowhere else on earth.
In our pursuit of exceptional ingredients, our team journeyed to the heart of this kingdom: the legendary Kunming Mushuihua Wild Mushroom Trading Center (木水花野生菌市場), the largest wild mushroom market in Asia. Arriving at 6:00 AM, we were spellbound by the sheer scale—thousands of stalls packed with mountains of freshly foraged treasures. Local experts taught us to judge their vitality, reading the unbroken seals of the caps, feeling the dense stems, and inhaling the perfume of the damp forest floor to distinguish the extraordinary from the average.
Among the treasures we cataloged, these eight iconic varieties capture the true essence of Yunnan:
1. Matsutake (松茸): Revered for its aristocratic aroma of alpine pine, cedar, and clean earth.
2. Porcini / Cep (牛肝菌): Decadently meaty, unfolding with a rich, buttery depth and intense umami.
3. Termite Mushroom (雞縱菌): Remarkably crisp, yielding a delicate sweetness mimicking tender poultry.
4. Catathelasma (青頭菌): Wonderfully succulent, acting as a flawless canvas that absorbs rich broths beautifully.
5. Morel (羊肚菌): Velvety yet nutty, with a honeycomb lattice that traps and intensifies sauces.
6. Chanterelle (雞油菌): Vibrantly golden, imparting a whimsical melody of apricot fruitiness and white pepper.
7. Red Cèpe (紅乳牛肝菌): Luxurious on the tongue, offering a silky mouthfeel and concentrated woodland flavor.
8. Jianshouqing (見手青): A culinary legend whose flesh bruises sapphire blue. Toxic when raw, it requires expert, high-heat cooking to unlock its intoxicatingly rich umami and velvety texture.
Yet, one crown jewel reigns supreme: the Ganbajun (乾巴菌). Growing embedded within pine needles, it demands immense, meditative human labor to meticulously clean by hand. The reward is unparalleled—a complex bouquet reminiscent of cured beef, pine resin, and a profound, lingering umami.
The fruits of our journey have finally culminated in our kitchen. Our hand-cleaned Ganbajun has found its perfect home in our signature Claypot Rice. As the rice crusts against the sizzling earthenware, it releases the trapped essence of Yunnan’s ancient forests directly at your table.
