18/08/2026
| Day 18 |
Montenegro
We are back overseas again and a country that we now see becoming increasingly popular as a holiday destination. Following in the footsteps of Croatia, its neighbour to the north, Montenegro is appearing on the radar as an alternative option now that prices further north are increasing.
Separated from Serbia in 2006, Montenegro as an independent nation is a bit of an enigma for many in the western world. Translated as “black mountain” we often drove across from Kosovo through the western border at Peja, down to Podgorica and on to the coast. Driving through those mountains is not for the faint-hearted. Twisting, turning, potholed roads, combined with long, dark tunnels through the bare mountain rock. Add in some nerve-wracking overtaking manoeuvres on blind bends by the locals and far too many huge, overloaded trucks and you normally reached Podgorica with a huge sigh of relief.
Initially, Montenegro was a place that we drove through to get to Croatia, we stayed either in Dubrovnik or Cavtat and took family who were visiting to see the sights. But as Croatia became more popular with overseas tourists and they opened the huge cruise ship dock, we wanted to find somewhere slightly quieter. It made sense to shorten the journey and investigate what we had been driving past all these years. And we are glad we did.
The small inlet of Kotor was the first on our list. Previously, we jumped on the roll-on-roll-off mini car ferry that took about five minutes across the bay to carry on north, rather than taking the considerably longer route all round the inlet of Kotor Bay. But driving into Kotor town itself was a good decision. Like a miniature Dubrovnik, the old town is a beautiful example of historical Venetian buildings that are now a designated UNESCO Heritage Site. Shiny marble streets, beautifully lit up at night, the harbour outside the gates is usually full of gigantic superyachts owned by Russian Oligarchs or other wealthy holiday clients, which makes for stark contrast from the old town and swaying palm trees.
As you would expect being on the shore, one of the main options in local restaurants is fish and the menus operate on a daily catchweight depending on what is landed that day. It’s a relatively short ferry ride over to Italy from Montenegro as we discovered on our previous road trip, so you can certainly see the influence in the menu options that offer squid ink risottos and pasta dishes. Combined with Balkan-influenced wood fired ovens, you can also get a reliable range of baked dishes and fresh breads alongside salads and grilled meats.
We took a drive around the bay with our Danish friends, who had recently invested in a property nearby to head for lunch at a place that had been recommended. Ćatovića Mlini was a delightfully peaceful location, away from the coastline but situated beside a water inlet from the main bay. Stone buildings, shaded patio seating, running water and cute little bridges over the waterways. Better still, the main reason for us coming here was the local lobster with saffron risotto, which was a steal at about €25. Ice cold drinks and the chance to take a deep breath before driving back through those mountains to Pristina.
On another lunch trip, we were recommended to try a small place that apparently cooked the best “lamb under the bell” in the region. The “bell” is called a “peka” and is usually a terracotta dome, pretty similar to a tagine. It captures the moisture and flavour in the wood oven while cooking and the resulting tender meat is spectacular. We can’t even remember the name of the place, but it was essentially someone’s back garden. Sitting on plastic patio chairs, we were brought plates of lamb with potatoes and hot peppers on the side with salad leaves. Washed down with a Tuborg beer, we had to pause for a moment to process what we were eating. In the background was a rusting VW Transporter parked in the driveway but the view was surreal. You really had to grab life by the scruff of the neck sometimes, throw caution to the wind and trust that all would be well.
Further down the coast to the south of Kotor are the larger resorts of Sveti Stefan and Budvar. You may have heard of Budvar from when Madonna played a gig on Jaz Beach in 2008, which at the time was one of the biggest events in the region and heralded a revitalised reputation that independent Montenegro was safe, vibrant and home to a considerable, young population with a desire to be included. We opted to stay away from Budvar that weekend because of the numbers expected in the area, but many of the local staff that we worked with in the UN made the journey so we were all living off the buzz for many weeks afterwards.
At one point, in a bid to boost political alliance and tourism, Montenegro Airlines launched new flights between Pristina and Podgorica. This heralded a brief, but glorious time when we were able to hop on a twenty-minute flight for about €80 and bypassed the need to drive through those dreaded mountains. Usually, the flights, on small fifty seaters, were like a UN shuttle bus given that every other passenger was also an international escaping the mission area for the weekend seeking the seashore and a sunbed.
As we mentioned above, our Danish friends invested in a property in Kotor Bay. Well, to be more precise, a plot of land. What then ensued was a construction process at the top of a hill via remote coordination and by jove, they actually pulled it off. It was a stunning place. Three floors, six apartments. We were spoiled with clifftop views, a private pool and the essential Danish supply: freshly ground coffee. Living overseas was a stressful endeavour. These travel and food tales may convince you otherwise, but it became your goal to seek normality where possible and surrounding yourself with good friends as a first step. We chose well. The Danes would also say they chose well. We were a like-minded bunch and most of them attended our wedding in Scotland, so we will always be grateful for the friendships.
Memories of Montenegro, like many other locations, are filled with friends, food and fun. The journey there, either by land or road, became part of the overall adventure with the reward at the end more than making up for it. It’s a beautiful part of the world, even the mountains are lush and green when you’re able to peel your eyes away from the road for a few seconds. Rolling valleys and rocky cliffs leading down to a very narrow strip of coastline hugging the turquoise and azure Adriatic. If you’re arriving internationally, the journey is easier so add it to your list of places to go and you won’t be disappointed.
This is day eighteen in our series sharing 31 Food Memories for the 31 Days of August. We would be delighted to have you join us for the journey so please like, share and follow. We’ve got a way to go and the more the merrier!