01/04/2026
Yong | Sweet Apricot Kernel & Lotus Seed Soup with White Gourd
In his later years, reflecting on a lifetime of enjoying wonderful dishes, Su Dongpo wrote in Lao Tao Fu(Ode to an Old Gourmet) of “steaming lamb with almond cream”. Another poet Yuan Mei’s Suiyuan Shidan (Recipes from the Sui Garden) later recorded a recipe of almond cream: pound and blend almonds with water, strain away the solids, mix with rice flour, and simmer with sugar. This is also the origin of Cantonese-style almond desserts. Almonds have southern (sweet) and northern (bitter) varieties. Here, southern almonds are soaked, blended with water, and strained to obtain a silky texture. The fragrance of almonds comes from benzaldehyde, which easily dissipates with heat. Traditionally, rice flour is cooked with it to form a gelatinous texture that traps the aroma. In this version, fresh lotus seeds – also rich in starch – are used instead, adding a clear, moist quality and allowing the almond fragrance to settle in. A “plant-based bird’s nest” made from shredded winter melon is added not for resemblance, but for playful contrast – introducing an airy, refreshing element.
蘭亭永 | 冬瓜蓮子杏仁露
蘇東坡晚年回望一生食味，
《老饕賦》中所記“滃杏酪之蒸羔”，
在袁枚《隨園食單》中已述其法：
捶杏仁作漿，挍去渣，
拌米粉，以糖熬之。
此味，亦為粵式杏仁甜品之源。
杏仁分南北，南杏味甜而北杏苦。
取南杏仁泡發磨漿，隔渣取酪。
杏仁之香，源於苯甲醛，易隨熱散去；
傳統以米粉同煮，糊化成“網”，鎖住杏仁之香。
此處改以鮮蓮子，同具澱粉之性，
更添清潤，使杏香內斂而不浮。
另配冬瓜絲制「素燕」，不求形似，只添趣意。
清甜之間，多一層輕巧的對照
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