11/01/2026
We came to Akita chasing the cold.
A few years ago I discovered fish sauce from this region. One bottle of sandfish sauce led to endless hours of research into cooler-climate fermentation. It sparked conversations, and those conversations led us north to Japan this year.
Here we met Takahashi Shottsuruya, a small husband and wife shottusu maker who took over his father’s craft 11 years ago. In Akita, shottusu is everyday. In Hinai ramen, Inaniwa udon, nabe. It’s what makes this place so quietly unique.
Takahashi’s sardines ferment for two years. Then about 20% of the mash is simmered with water and additional salt, sometimes with krill mash. It is filtered again and again until it runs clear, then bottled. Takahashi sends his shottusu all over Japan for chefs who want to add a unique depth of flavour to their dishes.
Akita reminded me that temperature and fluctuation are a good thing.
Cold slows fermentation.
And in that slowness, flavour develops.
All this couldn’t be possible without the help of
