06/24/2026
There is a vine that grows in the backyards of New Orleans with a quiet persistence that tells you everything about Creole culture: it comes back every year, it takes over the fence, it produces more than any single family can eat, and the neighbors get some, and the neighbors' neighbors get some, and by the end of the season everybody in the block has eaten mirliton and many of them have their grandmother's stuffed mirliton recipe written on an index card somewhere in a kitchen drawer. The mirliton, which most of the world calls chayote, is a pale green squash with a single large seed and a texture that holds up to long, slow cooking in a way that makes it ideal for the stuffed preparations that became one of the defining dishes of New Orleans Creole Thanksgiving tables. 🌿💚
The stuffing is built from the scooped interior of the mirliton itself, mixed with Gulf shrimp or blue crab meat, onions, celery, bell pepper, breadcrumbs soaked in the cooking liquid, and whatever combination of Creole seasonings the family has maintained for as long as anyone can remember. The dish is then baked in the mirliton shells until golden and bubbling. It is a meal that requires specific Gulf seafood and specific knowledge of the technique and a specific time of year when the mirlitons are ready, which is why it became a Thanksgiving tradition: you made it when the vine told you to make it, not when the calendar said. 🦐
Does your family have a stuffed mirliton tradition, and whose recipe is the one that defines it for you?