01/13/2023
The Italian Barrel
430 Barracks St, New Orleans, La 70116
The Italian Barrel
As is our custom to take each other out for our Birthdays, my dinning partner asked, “where would you like to go this year”? She gave me several options, which I had already been to several times, but not as of late, so I chose The Italian Barrel. Remembering my last visit there, it seemed like a perfect environment to nestle in on an unusually cold December night by New Orleans standards, and enjoy a night of good food, good wine, and good company.
The restaurant was filled, even had some brave souls eating Al Fresco with the butane heaters at full blast…not this guy. We were promptly seated for our 7:30pm reservation and handed our Wine / Cocktail menu. We both went with a glass of the Prosecco, which was perfectly chilled.
The aromas drifting from the kitchen got my attention immediately, garlic and onions, what could be better. I love the hustle and bustle of a dinning room, and when I have my preference, I will always choose the main area, I just want to be where the action is.
Our first course was the Tortino di Polenta ($16), a Polenta cake infused with white truffle oil and topped with oyster mushrooms. The polenta cake was perfectly assembled, with just the slightest hint of truffle oil, which is exactly what you want, too much, and it can overpower the dish. The topping of oyster mushrooms while very minimal was also delicious. We then decided on sharing the Meatball ($16). It was delicate in texture, but lacked flavor, the tomato sauce that was served with it, was a bit too sweet. If the meatball had been seasoned slightly more aggressively, it would have stood up to the sweetness of the sauce.
As we finished our appetizers, it was time to order the wine. We went with a bottle of the Antinori Rosso ($64). It was a fine compliment to our next dishes. It has an intense and complex nose, with fruity notes of black cherries and plums, overall, a very well-rounded wine.
The second courses started to arrive; I chose the Veal Porcini ($39). Lightly dusted veal, sauteed with butter and wine, and topped with porcini mushrooms, along with a side of linguini pasta which was sprinkled with Parmigiano Reggiano and tossed with cherry tomatoes, add a drizzle of white truffle oil, and it was complete. The veal was ever so tender, and not over battered with flour, which many establishments seem to have a problem with. The porcini mushrooms were perfectly sauteed and a perfect accompaniment to the veal. My dinner guests chose the Chef Samantha’s Fusilli Pasta ($25), which consisted of a white cream sauce with peas, shallots and Italian speck prosciutto. This turned out to be a very rich and fulfilling dish. It did lack some S&P, but those were on the table, so problem solved. My daughter chose the Porcini & Truffle Ravioli ($25)., which was fresh pasta with porcini mushrooms and truffle, topped with a creamy white wine sauce, and a splash of EVVO & truffle oil. The dish was creamy as described but arrived at the table as close to room temperature as possible without being considered cold. The lack of heat affected the true flavor of the mushrooms and caused the interior of the ravioli to have a tough mouth feel.
While the meals themselves were enjoyable, except for the Ravioli, the same can not be said for the overall service. When we were seated, and gave our drink orders, we proceeded to place our appetizer order, the waiter then asked us if we wanted to place our entrée order at the same time. We did, but with explicit instructions to not rush our meal. This seems to be a common occurrence in dinning establishments. We are there to enjoy a meal, with its service and ambiance, so asking that the meal be served with a reasonable amount of time between courses should not have been an issue. This was not the case. As soon as we finished the 1st course, the second course arrived, our table had not even been cleared from the 1st course. We then explained to our waiter that we requested that our courses be timed appropriately, that we were in no rush. She apologized but did not offer to take them back. As a reference of time, we arrived at 7:30, got our drinks at 7:40 along with our appetizers, received our entrees at 7:55, we were through with our meal by 8:20. This would be excellent if it were at a chain restaurant, but it is not. Our waiter brought bread for the table about halfway through the meal and brought me a knife for the veal when I was on my last piece. The mere fact that she did not notify management of our experience, shows me a lack of training in dinning service, this falls on the shoulders of the Owners / Chef / Management.
So, in conclusion, a visit to The Italian Barrell will bring you a pleasant meal albeit expensive, but with some serious pitfalls in service.