24/09/2026
Sorry for the silence past few weeks. After a manic bank holiday weekend of back-to-back jobs, we packed our bags and went travelling around Albania for two weeks. It was so different to any country we have visited so far. And it defied the preconceptions that we may have had.
For one it was safe. At no point did we feel that our phone might get snatched or our pockets picked or the danger of running into trouble when walking by ourselves late in the night.
It was good to read up about the country’s history before the trip. But the insight we got from our fabulous driver, Elvis, and through our interaction with locals was so much more than we bargained for.
I asked Elvis to tell me five things I should know about Albanian culture. Funnily enough three of them revolved around food, entertaining and hospitality. And from the experience we had in the two weeks, I couldn’t agree more.
Food is plentiful, affordable, wholesome & homemade. Whether you order at a restaurant or have breakfast ‘included’ at hotels, the table is always full and the generosity is evident, and touching.
In Tushemisht, my favourite place in Albania, I was taking photos of grapevines outside a family home. The lady of the house happened to come out that very time. Seeing me appreciate the luscious grapes, she plucked a bunch off and gave it to me. When I went back with a box of Thank You chocolates, she handed me more grapes and simply wouldn’t take no for an answer. (I could set up a fruit stall or make my own raki, the amount she gave me!)
Albanian food shares similarities with Greek, Italian as well as Turkish cuisines (the latter owing to the centuries of Ottoman rule). The food can be a bit greasy, and spices are minimal, but we liked the fact that there was a choice of vegetables with every meal. So we enjoyed fresh fish from the lakes, seafood in coastal towns and meats, inland with sides of salad, sautéed or stuffed veggies.
Naturally, I had to do an Albanian cooking course. And I got a wonderful opportunity to learn with an enthusiastic bunch in Berat. We learnt to make Eggplant Casserole, Fergese and Qofte (meatballs) from Mama Nina at her cosy home-restaurant in the castle complex. I am looking forward to making them soon. Though not before our mega 3rd October Pop Up, the Confluence of Cultures, which too features stuffed vegetables that travelled with the Armenians to Kolkata. No distractions until then, I am telling myself.
