22/03/2023
Simon Wilkinson reviews Pipers of Penola
THE stunning floral displays are indicative of the care taken by the husband-and-wife team behind one of our regional dining stars.
IT’S the flowers that will make the first impression when you walk into Pipers of Penola. The big vase in the vestibule has a stunning arrangement so fresh they might still be tickled by the morning’s dew drops. Lilies perhaps.
Over in the corner a spray of natives has a less manicured appeal. In the passage to the toilets, little bundles of rosemary and thyme freshen the air. The care taken with all these arrangements, sourced from their home garden and another local grower, are indicative of the approach taken by owners Simon and Erika Bowen.
The little white, weatherboard church where they have established Pipers is always immaculate, every tablecloth properly laundered and pressed, the glasses spotless, the menus free of stains and splatters.
It’s one of the reasons it has become a must-visit destination for travellers who are likely also touring the famed w**eries of the Coonawarra up the road, where the Bowen name carries its own cachet.
And for the local community, both townies and those on rural properties, it is the place to celebrate a special occasion or sign off on a big deal.
Husband and wife have clear responsibilities in the business. Erika’s fastidious eye and natural charm keep the dining room ticking over beautifully, particularly when she is the one attending the table. Her talents have been recognised as a previous winner of The Advertiser Best Service award.
Erika also takes the lead in recommending alternatives from a w**e list that digs deep into the surrounding dirt, particularly in the cabernets, of course, before widening its gaze to other regions around the country and the world. Older vintages are a particular treat.
Meanwhile, Simon takes charge in the kitchen, where he has refined a style of cooking that fits his mixed clientele. Serves will satisfy the hungriest farm workers. Plating is smart but never prissy. Flavours may surprise or delight, but never shock.
A complementary coffee cup of decadently creamy soup, the top frothed cappuccino-style, sets the mood from the start. We’re going to be looked after well.
Flakes of ocean trout have been scorched with a gas flame so they straddle the line between cooked and raw: one moment all wobbly and voluptuous, the next seared and toasty. They are tossed over a mound of coconut rice with strips of fried wonton and scattered herbs. The dish is finished with a scant drizzle of red curry sauce that has a bare whisper of heat but great balance elsewhere. I’d just like more of it.
Springy lozenges of parmesan and horseradish gnocchi are flecked with herbs and served with a ragout of mushrooms. A crumbed and fried egg teeters on top of the pile, waiting to be cleaved so its deep orange yolk can dribble out.
All the hard work of deboning a duckling has been done in the kitchen, resulting in a thick slab of blushing meat topped by a layer of glazed skin that glows like a french polished table. The poultry splits plate space with a mix of brussels sprout leaves, lardons and hazelnuts all tossed together, while a “roasted pear” that looks more like it has been poached isn’t really needed.
A shell of excellent flaky pastry is filled with onion that has stewed into a dark, caramelised jam and gooey cubes of the famed French goat cheese Chevrefeuille Crottin. It’s wicked in every way. Segments of orange and pickled beetroot help bring things back to earth.
The biggest adventure comes at the end, with a “roasted pineapple escargot” that is underpinned by a sesame seed crème patissiere and scattered with fragments of crushed halva. While it was a small case of unforeseen pastry overload, the combination of the intense sweetness and acid of the fruit, and nuttiness of the crème and an almond frangipane make complete sense.
With the summer holidays approaching, South-East towns such as Robe and Beachport will be preparing for the annual influx of visitors. Penola, an hour or so inland, is a terrific addition to the travelling itinerary, particularly for those who love their food and w**e. Or their flowers.
